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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.